I have an addiction to getting shellac manicures.
I have been known to rip, pick and bite my nails, so having a manicure that lasts two to three weeks without chipping saves me from all the bad habits I have developed.
The last time I got a “gel” manicure at a salon, my nails started to sting while my hands were under the lamps. It struck me that the chemicals, heat and light may not be a healthy combination, so I started to research whether there are any safety concerns with gel manicures and how to extend the life of a gel manicure.
I learned that not all gel polishes are created equal. "Shellac” is owned by CND (Creative Nail Design) and represents a full line of trademarked products. Because Shellac was one of the first long-lasting polishes created over ten years ago, the name became an umbrella term used for a manicure that was cured under lights and lasted approximately two weeks. There are meaningful differences in the ingredients, application and removal between gel polish and Shellac.
Shellac is a semi-permanent polish made from half regular nail polish and half gel. Simply put, Shellac is a semi-permanent polish. It is thinner than gel and is, therefore, easier to apply. It requires a base coat, two colour coats and a topcoat.
Shellac polish is gentler on your nails because it doesn’t require the nail to be buffed before the base coat is applied. It also doesn’t need to be buffed to ‘break the bond’ before the removal process.
When removing Shellac polish, cotton balls are soaked in acetone, applied to your nails and wrapped in tin foil for about five minutes. The acetone should quickly break up the polish, leaving it looking disintegrated. This is a distinguishing factor from my perspective because the removal of Shellac is so much easier than gel, and it (generally) doesn’t cause any damage to my nails.
Gel polish is pre-mixed, semi-solid monomers and oligomers hardened into polymers when cured under an LED or UV light. Specifically, the combination of gel and light bakes the polish onto your nails.
I discovered that my nails sometimes sting under the curing lamp because the polymerization reaction gives off heat, known as an exothermic reaction. When the chemical reaction happens too quickly, there is an incompatibility between the gel polish and the light. The relevance of this is essential. Even though Shellac and gel can be cured with an LED or UV light, using the right light source is critical.
The most popular brands of semi-permanent polish (not GEL) are OPI Gel Polish and CND Shellac. Over 90 other el and semi-permanent polishes, including more popular brands like Gelish, IBD, and Gellen, are on the market. Many of these less-known brands contain harmful ingredients. I confirmed that neither OPI Gel Colour nor CND Shellac includes the three most harmful ingredients: formaldehyde, toluene, or dibutyl phthalate.
It’s not lost on me that I incessantly apply sunscreen to my hands when I’m in the sun to avoid sunspots and aging spots, yet I’m willing to put my hands under UV or LED lights to cure nail polish.
While there have not been any large and longitudinal studies on the health risks associated with gel manicures, there have been two documented cases of skin cancer in women with no previous history of the condition and who had both used nail lamps.
According to the American Academy of Dermatology, applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher to the hands can help prevent the chance of skin cancer and skin ageing. It will help protect the skin from the ultraviolet radiation used to seal the gel polish to the nail. You can also purchase fingerless gloves to wear during a manicure. This will significantly reduce any risks associated with gel manicures.
For those who want a long-lasting manicure but prefer not to put their hands under lamps, there are a few other options:
CND makes a system called CND Vinylux. It is a regular nail polish that is considered long wear as it lasts one week. The system includes a base coat, colour and top coat, which must be used together to ensure a long last. It is supposed to shine like gel and fully dry in eight minutes. There are over 100 colours in this line. I have used Vinylux, and I agree it is better than regular nail polish but not as long-lasting as Shellac. I like that it can be used at home. Some salons also offer this product as well.
Nail dipping has become a popular treatment at salons and does not use LED or UV lamps. The process requires the nail to be buffed, after which a primer coat and base coat are applied. Each nail is then dipped, one by one, into a pigmented dip powder two times and sealed with a top coat. I have tried dipping nails once and didn’t like the result. It wasn’t as crisp as gel, and my nails started to chip after seven days. I may have had a lousy technician and should likely try this again because several ladies I know swear by this method. I’m skeptical about the safety of the dipping nails because, after a quick review, I was left unclear whether they include unhealthy chemicals. I will have to look at this more closely.
Regardless of the polish or the application, there are several things you can do to prolong the life of your manicure:
Ask for a dry manicure versus soaking your nails in water. A dry manicure ensures no moisture on the nail, which can cause premature lifting. I swear by this rule. I learned that a wet manicure (soaking nails) always leads to peeling and chipping earlier than a dry manicure.
Cover your nails with gloves when doing the dishes. Any extra exposure to water only reduces the longevity of the manicure.
Try not to file your nails in between manicures. It breaks the seal of your manicure at the open end of your nail, providing an opening for water to penetrate the polish.
One week after your manicure, apply a regular top coat; it provides another layer of protection against chipping.
Use cuticle oil on your nails in between manicures. It keeps the nail bed moisturized and your nails looking fantastic.
Don’t ever pick the polish off your nails. Removing polish improperly results in the nail flaking, thinning and getting damaged. Always try to get to a salon for removal. You can apply the acetone-soaked cotton balls and tinfoil at home in a pinch.
I feel more knowledgeable about getting the best and safest manicures. I will continue to get Shellac/gel manicures because the benefits outweigh the risks. I plan to find a new salon that offers the Shellac and OPI gel brands and uses the right lights and removal process. I think I will start to pay closer attention to the sterilization process; just because I haven’t had a bad experience doesn’t mean I will always be that lucky. It’s also worth noting that during my research, there were multiple references to the fact that I am more likely to get fungus than skin cancer from frequenting a nail salon.
I plan to apply sunscreen before I go to the salon. I don’t see myself buying fingerless gloves…. but I never say never.